Lunch with Gaia Gaja

Just after a press conference for Chicago Gourmet 2009, I had the pleasure of meeting the Vice President of one of the world's greatest wineries, Gaia Gaja.  The Gaja Winery is located in the small town of Barbaresco in northwest Italy, and has been making wine since 1859.  When Gaia joined the winery team in 2005, that ensured Gaja would be family run and owned for five generations.  We met at Spiaggia Cafe for lunch, where they preset a table for us with three Gaja wines.  With so much heritage, history, and great wines, I am sure we would have much to talk about.

After selecting our lunch choices, we began to talk about her travels.  Gaia travels often, representing Gaja wines around the globe, even in far away markets such as Japan (her next stop), and India.  She loves visiting exotic places, learning new languages, and meeting different people.  I found out Chicago is one of her favorite cities- she really likes our welcoming metropolis, wine knowledge, and burgeoning restaurant business.  Her favorite restaurant stop was at Piccolo Sogno, where she enjoyed very authentic food from Chef Tony Priolo.

Gaja Winery has been a global presence ever since Gaia's father, Angelo, brought his family's Barbaresco to the forefront beginning in 1961.  His innovative techniques and marketing not only created opportunity for his wines, but also for the rest of Italy.  He has been described as "the force behind Italy's wine revolution."  Aggressive business sense, as well as appreciation for the future, has led to family acquisitions of new vineyards in Barolo, Montalcino, and Bolgheri.  Since Gaja Winery only makes wine from family held vineyards, they are always seeking and, because of their reputation, sought out by prospective sellers of land with excellent grape growing potential.  This, along with Gaja Distribuzione, which offers some of the world's best wines to Italian shoppers, keeps Gaja on the cutting edge of wine technology and marketing.

As our lunch arrived, we sampled the wines, the first of which was the 2005 Gaja Barbaresco.  I thought the vintage would need more aging, but it was very elegant and pleasant.  Gaia instructed me that their Barbaresco is made extremely lively in youth, with bright fruit and hints of Nebbiolo's characteristic tar and licorice.  As the wine ages, it can become a bit muted, only later to flower into a mature, powerful, and classic wine.  All Gaja wines are only vinified in acceptable growing seasons, or vintages, ensuring high quality, reliability, and aging potential.

The next two wines were both from separate single vineyard sites in Montalcino, where Gaja makes Brunello out of the local Sangiovese varietal.  Once they are aged four years in house, both the Rennina and Sugarille sites make excellent wines.  The Rennina is more subtle and silky than the much larger Sugarille, with ripe cherry, tobacco, and leather scents and flavors.  The Sugarille is a powerful wine, carrying deep dark fruit, cocoa, and spice, along with an extra long finish.  They went well with our cuisine- Margherita pizza and gnocchi with wild boar ragu.  The ripe acidity and slight sweetness of tomatoes are the perfect complement to Sangiovese based wines.

The Gaja Winery does make many other great wines- 16 to be exact, along with 12 different grappas.  One is even named after Gaia and her great grandmother, Clotilde Rey- the Gaia & Rey Chardonnay out of the Langhe DOC in Piedmonte.  The vineyard was planted in 1979, Gaia's birthyear, and has become known as Italy's greatest white wine.  They also produce a wine named after Gaia's younger sister, Rossana- the Rossj-Bass, which is a Chardonnay with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc.  Three single vineyard Barbaresco wines are also made, along with one Barolo, and three Piedmonte blends.  And, for the more frugal shopper, the three Bolgheri wines are made starting at $40.  The Promis, Magari, and Camarcanda are all blends, using mainly Bordeaux varietals, and come from terroir ideal for creating strong wines with ageing potential.

For this lunch, I would like to thank Phil Rozen of Terlato Wines International, Barbara Edelman of Barbara Edelman Communications, and Gaia Gaja.  Her family not only makes great wines, but with her charm and knowledge, she makes an excellent lunch companion.

Fun, Sun, and Wine

If you are looking for something to do during your lunch hour today, try some Twister!  Make your way to the Park Grill in Millenium Park.  Always a good spot for some food, but today, there will be a rather large Twister mat set up under a tent in the south patio from 11am to 3pm.  Almost 1000 sq. ft. of Twister mat, expecting over 1000 contestants on a beautiful sunny Chicago day. 



For adult refreshment, complimentary Seven Daughters Winemaker's Blend will be onhand and sure to please.  A California blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Muscat, and Gewurztraminer with tons of fruit and a bit of spice.  The wine will also be available on the Park Grill's extensive list, which, along with their beer selection, will offer some great summer drink options. 

So treat yourself to a stress reliever, enjoy the weather, and grab some vino!

Make Your Own Wine with Chiarugi Hardware

On my quest to find more places in Chicago that can help the average person make wine, I stumbled upon Chiarugi (KEY-AH-RU-GEE for those of you who have a hard time with Italian pronunciation) Hardware in Little Italy at 1412 W. Taylor Street.  As soon as I walked in I was greeted by the owner, Paul Rinaldi. Paul grew up in the neighborhood, and his family has owned the store for over 50 years.  The store's focus has shifted from supplying italian families to helping young University students, but he seems more than happy with the change.  The shop is full of tools and basic household supplies, and I was able to pick up two small propane tanks for the grill.  They also have many basic supplies for wine making like yeasts, acids, corks, bottles, and bentonite for filtering. 

Paul knows a bit about making wine, and all about the supplies.  A couple essentials which are not at the store are barrels and juice.  The oak barrels have become somewhat pricey to keep an inventory, but are available at a number of online sites.  The juice or whole grapes are available yearly in a lot on 35th and Racine from August to October.  The supplier gets all product from California, and I will have more info when the lot opens.

In the meantime, stop in and say hi to Paul, grab some supplies, and wait for the juice to roll in.  You could be on your way to making some good homemade wine!

Naperville 4th of July Weekend Ribfest

Independance Day 2009 is here, and the Windy City Wine Guy and family decided to head out to Naperville for Ribfest.  If you like smokey BBQ, rock and roll, and good suburban family fun, you should make your way out there.  Many tips on how to get there, best plans, and food and beverage for this yearly event are up for grabs in this article.

If you are coming from the city, like us, you have many options.  We drove straight there using I290 to I88, but you can also take the Metra straight there.  Once we arrived, we parked in the Burlington parkling lot, where the Metra drops off, and proceeded to the free shuttle which took us to Ribfest- extremely convenient.  The shuttle runs all day, from multiple lots. 

You will have no problem finding food and drink, as it is spread throughout the park, with the BBQ close to both music stages.  We tried ribs from Sgt. Oink, and they were flavorful, meaty, and tender.  They seemed more Texas in style, with a flavorful dry rub, accompanied by smokey sauce.  We also sampled pulled pork sandwiches from Aussom Aussie BBQ Co. which was extremely tender and rich.  They had an extremely spicy sauce to try on the side which was at an atomic level!  Both made good cornbread.  I really wanted to try a double deck sandwich made by Porky 'N' Beans of pulled pork and beef brisket, but had no room left.  I did save a bit of room for some fried dough covered with powdered sugar.

The beverage options were limited.  They had vending machines and fresh squeezed lemonade for non-alcoholic choices, while Miller Beers MGD and Miller Lite was there for adults at $5 each.  Zinfandel and Chardonnay from Dancing Bull Wines in California were the wine choices, a great option for mass vending- definitely offers value.

If you go, bring a blanket and some foldup chairs.  Pick out a spot to camp out that is in close proximity to food, beverage, Port-o-lets, music, and an exit.  Fireworks are always on July 4th, with Chicago fireworks being on July 3rd.  For all additional info, check out the Ribfest site- they offer detailed maps, transportation options, entertainment schedules, and the menu.  Hope you all have a great time and stay safe!

4th of July Wine Picks

So the 4th of July weekend is upon us and now it's time to add the finishing touches to your shopping list.  Whether you are grilling, BBQ-ing, cooking in, or ordering out, these are some sure-fire picks to please all palates.



We are going to start off with a couple of good rosé wines.  Now you have to have a sparkling choice, since it is a holiday.  And for that I choose the Mionetto "il" Rose NV ($9.99) sparkling wine from northeastern Italy.  It has a great nose full of raspberry, along with minerality, bing cherry, and light crisp bubbles.  Great with almost any food options.  I also chose a still rosé, the 2008 Gustave Lorentz "Le Rosé" of Pinot Noir ($10.99) from Alsace.  A bit more depth and fruit flavor, it is light enough to enjoy on a hot sunny day- and very versatile with food.





Moving along, we may have some guests who think of sparkling or rosé as a bit "phoo-phoo".  These next cool picks aim to please.  2008 Tabali Viognier ($10.99) has honey citrus, peach, fresh herb, and creamy texture- excellent with fried foods.  For another honey toned wine, we have the 2007 Simonsig Chenin Blanc ($10.99) from Stellenbosch, South Africa.  This wine is packed with tropical flavor and complexity.  Next we move to 2007 Leitz Dry Riesling ($14.99) from the Rheingau in Germany.  Apricot, lime, and a floral nose are enough to tackle most spicy dishes.  For the ultimate summer wine, try the 2007 Puiatti "Zuccole" Pinot Grigio ($16.99) from Friuli.  This version has a bit more weight than your usual, with apples and pears, perfect with anything from seafood to spice. 

No party would be complete without beer, and my choice is the North Coast Brewing Co. Blue Star Wheat Beer.  There might be nothing more refreshing on a hot summer day than an ice cold wheat beer, and this one packs light hops and citrus fruit flavor.  Stick it in the cooler and enjoy the food and fireworks.

For those that need some red wine, I would choose to go with wines packed with fruit, so off to Australia.  Red Heads Studio presents 2005 Barrel Monkey Shiraz ($16.99).  Full of red rich fruit and light spice.  For a bit more, try 2006 Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Shiraz Grenache ($18.99) blend.  Charred red fruit and chocolatey coffe flavor on this well balanced wine will make it the hit of the day.  Both wines are the perfect complement to BBQ and sauces.

No matter what you pick, I hope you all enjoy your holiday, and stay safe.  As for me, I will be indulging in Rib Fest '09 in Naperville!

 

(image courtesy of flickr)

Straight Facts: Mexican Coke

During a visit to one of my new favorite Printer's Row eateries, Flaco's Tacos, I noticed they sold Mexican Coke.  Now, I have had it before, and know much about it.  But I am very sure that many of us in this country have no clue what the exact difference is.

The major difference between the Coke made in this country and in others, like Mexico, is high fructose corn syrup, or HFCS.  HFCS is a sugar substitute made completely of corn.  The glucose from corn is chemically modified, and becomes an inexpensive product with sugar sweetness and longer shelf-life.  Since real sugar is a bit more expensive to get a hold of, and corn is readily available in the US, many American products include this manmade product.  It is proven to be harder to digest, and relatable to health problems such as obesity, liver disease, and diabetes. 

Mexican Coke is made with real sugar, instead of HFCS, just like many European products.  My favorite such product is San Pellegrino Aranciata.  They have distributed it here with HFCS, but is available with no sugar substitute at many specialty Italian shops, like Panozzo's in the South Loop. 

OK- time to get on my pulpit.  I am very glad that many people are becoming more health conscious, but I hope that everyone is willing to take a good look at the ingredients of everything you buy.  Do not take it for granted that the companies making these products are looking out for your best interest- they are run by corporations, whose main goal is $$$, not your health or safety.  These facts also do not reflect well upon our government.  It seems that other countries, like Mexico and the EU, are more concerned with the health of their people than with how much money corporations can save.  We are a part of the greatest country in the world.  It is very important that we remember that, and also realize that the people are still in control.  If we refuse to purchase these products, they will stop making them.  If we voice our displeasure with our elected officials enough, they will work for us.  For a bit more about this all Natural talk, check out this link.

Also, if you get a chance, check out Flaco's Tacos.  Not only can you order online and pick up your food in the blink of an eye, but they make fantastic, homemade Mexican.  Their grilled tilapia tacos are awesome, along with the carne asada.  And their homemade salsas are the best I've had, especially the green salsa.  Check it out if you're in the neighborhood, and let me know what you think!

BYOB at The Grocery Bistro

A few weeks ago, after hearing so many good things about The Grocery Bistro, I made a reservation with my wife, and headed out to 804 W. Washington.  It is just west of Halsted, in the vicinity of both Greektown and Randolph Street.  After easily finding street parking just in front, we walked past their outdoor patio and inside.

We were greeted by a hostess and brought promptly to our seats.  There is a large communal seating table in the center, with smaller tables meant for two against the wall.  Against the opposite wall, you will see the chalkboard menu.  It is very cozy, and well decorated.  It falls in line with a new trend in the restaurant business- Bring Your Own Botte(s) (BYOB) and communal seating.  Smaller spaces can be used to fit more people, cutting the owner's rent cost, allowing them to pass it on to the guests.  The BYOB also allows guests to enjoy their favorite beverages at a reasonable cost, while the owner saves himself the initial opening costs that come with liquor licenses and inventory.

Since they are BYOB, I brought a bottle of 2005 Staete Landt Pinot Noir from Marlborough, New Zealand.   I figured that it would give us the flexibility to go with either meat or fish.  It is an excellent bottle of wine with a pretty, floral smell accompanied by a hint of spice and licorice.  The taste was of rich red berries and peppery spices, with an extremely long finish.  They charge $5 corkage for a first bottle, $10 for each subsequent bottle.  If you forget to bring it with, Perman Wine Selections is located just next door.

After receiving our menus, we were informed that since we arrived before 7pm, we were eligible to try a three course dinner for $25 each.  That included our choice of a shared plate, entree, and dessert.  The price is available Monday thru Thursday from 5 to 7 pm, and has since risen to $29, with certain choices costing up to $5 more.  I went with the onion tart, lamb chops, and PB & J brioche, while my wife went with the potato leek soup, whitefish, and chocolate monte cristo. 

Our first course arrived after waiting about 35 minutes- way too long for any course, let alone the first.  But the food turned out great.  My onion tart was made with carmelized sweet onions, surrounded by flaky delicious phyllo dough, and drizzled with truffle oil- the best I've had.  I was told that Chef Andre Christopher's mother made them fresh every morning.  My wife enjoyed her soup, and it was very tasty.  It seems the vegetarian dishes were a natural for the place, since the chef was, in fact, a vegetarian.

Not long after we were done, our main courses arrived.  My chili crusted lamb chops came with yogurt cream spinach and curried cous cous.  The sides meshed well with the lamb and spices, but the meat seemed a bit lower quality, as it was chewy and somewhat dry.  Overall, a decent dish for the price.  My wife's whitefish was flavorful and flaky, and came with string beans and was topped with a delicious lemon butter sauce.  If she did not want to take some of it home, I would've eaten it all!

Dessert was unbelievable, even being a spoof on popular lunch sandwiches.  My PB & J was creamy and sweet, with soft, melt in our mouth brioche that was toasted on the outside.  My wife's monte cristo was soft brioche with an egg crust, stuffed with a layer of chocolate, and accompanied by a sweet raspberry dipping sauce.  They were both amazing.

Besides the long first course wait, the service was good, informative, and unobtrusive.  Our waters were constantly filled, but our server was a bit hard to get when we needed him- he seemed stretched a little thin due to the amount of tables in his station.  This didn't bother us, as it allowed us to have a good time and not feel rushed.

Since our visit, much has happened at The Grocery Bistro.  Chef Christopher has left, after not being paid for nine weeks, and is going up north to open Little Bucharest Bistro with owner Branko Podrumedic.  It will be opening in the old Continental Cafe spot, and we should be expecting great Romanian food with a bit of the Chef's twist.  The Chef's parents are also staging a boycott of  The Grocery Bistro, as I have heard they were vendors, and have gone unpaid as well.  Their van is parked in front with all details listed.  This also leaves alot of question marks with the cuisine, as the owner has now promoted sous chef, Monica Walters.  My favorite dessert sandwiches are gone, along with a few starters, but the entrees seem the same.  Let's hope Chef and owner can resolve their differences, and that both new places can give us great food.

Overall, the ambience is great, and the food is definitely worth a visit, especially if you go with the early prix fixe.  I will definitely be going back to check out the revised menu.

Father's Day in the Wine Biz

There is not much I like better than to see a success story come from an immigrant family, especially an Italian one.  After all, that's what the USA is all about!  It is also great to see that success flourish into a family business, run by a father and his children.  That is what I am featuring this Father's Day with the Terlato family.This is a three generation operation which was started by Tony's father in Chicago 50 years ago.  Tony's father was born in Italy and came to the US with his parents, and lived in Brooklyn before their business endeavors brought them to Chicago.  Since then, The Terlato family, through patriarch Anthony Terlato, has grown into one of the largest wine importers, as well as creating and owning many of their own labels such as Tangley Oaks, Chimney Rock, Sanford, Alderbrook, and Rutherford Hill, to name a few.  The company is now run by president Bill Terlato, and brother John, with much help from their father Tony. 

Tony trusts his children to build on a tradition of excellence, bringing quality wines from around the globe to the US.  They have commitment and loyalty to eachother, as well as to the business.  The love is evident, as John routinely gives his father a kiss each morning and night.  This family devotion reminds me of the relationship my brother and I had for our father, while growing up in an Italian American family.  The love of your family helps translate to an overall enthusiasm in life and business.  My love of life, family, and heritage helps me strive to bring quality wines and reviews to all through my website, as well as through my recommendations as a sommelier.

I hope everyone can enjoy this story and find a way to relate it to yourselves on this joyous day, celebrating fathers everywhere!

Oak & Wine: Giving it the Wood

If used, oak can have a profound effect on wine.  Not only can it affect the color and flavor, but it also adds tannin and complexity.  Now, wines fermented and/or aged in stainless steel give a more natural, crisp, and clean taste to a wine, but wines vinified with oak can be just as good, if not better.  Oak barrels allow a small amount of air in, which not only softens harsh wine tannins, but also evaporates alcohol and water.  This leaves behind a concentrated evolving wine, with more flavors and tannins added from the oak.  But the kind of oak and how it is charred will determine the additional flavors of the wine.  What kind of oaks and char levels are used?

First, let's delve into the different oaks.  The oaks used normally come from North America, France, and Slovenia.  North American oak has more bold flavors, due to the preparation and higher amount of lactones, giving off more intense, sweet, and vanilla flavors to a wine.  The best of North American oak is found on the east coast and midwestern United States.  Other sources are Oregon and Canadian oak. 

French oak imparts less flavor and aromatics, but offers a higher amount of wood tannin, making it a better aging oak.  There are many forests that are used to harvest the oak, each used for different types of wine.  Tronçais is used to create long lived reds with big tannins, while Vosges is used to impart oak to faster maturing wines like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Other forests include: Nevers, Allier, Centre, Bertrange, Jupilles, and Limousin.

Slovenian oak is normally used by Italian winemakers, and imparts low aromatics and medium tannins to a wine.  This allows the juice to truly express itself, while gaining a small tannin boost for richness and aging.  Eastern Europe is also being looked at by the French as a cheaper alternative, mostly from the Black Sea and Baltic areas.

Now we can get to the char.  The toast level of a barrel will affect wine differently as well, and can give amazing flavor profiles such as yeasty bread, creamy vanilla, smokey bacon, and spicy cinnamon and nutmeg.  A low char on a barrel will impart more oak flavor and tannin.  A higher char will give off more flavor quickly, remove some of the coconut, but can reduce the color of a wine. 

It is up to each winemaker to determine the type of oak and char they would like to use on their wine.  This greatly determines the style, and can turn good juice into a great wine, or vice versa.  This can also affect the price of a wine.  If expensive French oak is used, and the wine is aged for 22 months, with more evaporation and concentration, the wine will cost much more than one fermented and aged in stainless steel.  I say try out all types and see which you like the best- you may just like them all!

(photo courtesy of flickr)

Cubs vs. Sox- The Wine Way

To kick off the impending Cubs vs. Sox series, Bill Daley of the Chicago Tribune tasted a couple of recently unveiled wines named after two of Chicago's favorite players.  The Mark Buerhle Merlot, called "Buerhlot", and the Derrek Lee Cabernet Sauvignon, called "Caberlee", are two wines made by Longball Cellars in California.  I love the fact that many of these "celebrity wines" offer proceeds to charity, but many of them offer extremely pedestrian wines.  Check out the review, and see who wins!

(image courtesy of flickr)

The Body of a Wine

I know all of us have heard the term "body" used to describe a wine, but what exactly is that referring to?  Certainly not the muscular nature of Michelangelo's David, but wine does have it. 

The body of a wine has to do with weight, or how it weighs on your palate.  The best way to understand this would be to take four glasses, filling the first with water, the second with skim milk, the third with whole milk, and the fourth with cream.  Take the water in your mouth and feel it.  It feels light and, of course, watery.  The skim milk will feel a bit more weighty, but still light, while the whole milk will start to feel more full.  The cream will be the heaviest, with a full palate feel.  You can go further with either heavy whipping cream or olive oil, but I think we should get the point.  These go on a light to heavy scale just like wine!

Body can be judged in both white and red wines, still and sparkling, sweet and dry.  White wine varietals which typically feel more like water or skim milk could include Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, with reds being Gamay or Pinot Noir.  Fuller bodied varietals tend to be more weighty like whole milk or cream.  Full white varietals can be Chardonnay or Viognier, while reds can include Shiraz/Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Contributing factors for body are numerous.  Not only does the varietal's natural juice count toward the weight, but so does it's vinification.  Stainless steel fermentation, oak aging, maceration, malolactic fermentation, chaptalization, etc. can all affect the end product.  Getting to know your varietals will help you determine what body each are, as most varietals tend to be around medium body, but can be lighter or fuller medium, depending upon where they are grown and the winemaker. 

Getting to know about the varietals will also help you determine what you'd like to drink.  If I am outside on a warm summer day eating some oysters, I might pick a Muscadet, made from the Melon de Bourgogone varietal, which is lighter, with a touch of salinity.  If it is a bit cooler out, and I am eating some cumin spiced pork chops, I may go for a Sonoma Zinfandel, for its rich weight and slight sweetness and spice.  If you have any trouble finding a good pairing, ask the Windy City Wine Guy!

(photo courtesy of flickr)

Planning Your Wine Tasting Event

Everyone loves to do it.  Invite some friends to your home, offer some beverages and tasty food, entertain.  But how do you impress?  How do you make sure everyone has a great time and a memorable experience?  There are many ways to approach this, but the most important is planning.  With adequate time and imagination, you will be more than half way to success! 

The best way to plan is to start at the beginning.  The two most crucial determining factors in planning your event are the why and who.  Why are you planning an event and who are you going to invite?  Events could be anything from a baptism to the Superbowl, while you could be inviting friends, co-workers, family, etc.  This will help you with your theme, unless you are having people over just to have people over.  In that case, you will determine your theme.  The theme will translate to the components of your event. 

You should start dividing your event into components- food and beverage.  Determine which of these is most important, then pair the other off that.  Superbowl party with wings and dogs?  Grab some beers, wines, and other refreshments to compliment.  Inviting others over for some bubbly?  Pair up some rich cheeses or dessert. 

Once you narrow down your options, get your source.  Are you going to cater or cook?  Delivery or pick-up?  Search your local area for the best vendors and help.  Use the advice of these "experts" along with some internet research to finalize your selections.

Finally, you've reached presentation.  Survey your space and configure everything to make access easy for your guests.  If you have a large kitchen, that can be an ideal place to stage the food and beverage- there should only be ONE spot to retrieve both.  This will also hopefully be your main social area- a central area will make for easier cleaning afterward.  Make sure a bathroom is close and accessible.  And provide entertainment- throw on a movie or sporting event in an alternate area.  When people want a small escape from socializing, a television is ideal.  Also, make sure your guests will be able to get home safe.  Not only are you possibly legally responsible, but morally as well.  They are, after all, your guests.

If you are having any difficulty, consult some experts, like the Windy City Wine Guy.  You may have to pay a bit for some help and advice, but this will be further assurance that your event will be a success.  No matter what you do, if you follow these steps, you and your guests will be having a delicious and wonderful time.  Take pictures and grab your bragging rights!

Night Harvest

This is a photo of a harvest worker in Chile, gathering grapes by spotlight under a midnight sky.  I recently received it from a friend of mine who works with Casa Lapostolle in Chile. 

The winery experimented with this practice for the first time last season with their Sauvignon Blanc at the Las Kuras vineyard in Cachapoal.  The experience was such a success, they decided to perform night harvesting in 2009 at all of their three estates!  This made quite a difference as the workers were cool and relaxed while experiencing quiet, soothing moonlit nights.  They also felt more in tune with nature, and able to enjoy work more.  The harvest started on February 25th, and ended on April 25th with the harvesting of Carmenere from Apalta.

The experience yielded not only a great work environment, but also a superior product.  When the grapes are able to cool down from the daytime sun, they can be picked at an optimum temperature.  They will not be sitting under a hot sun, heated up further from interacting with other hot grapes and hot air in gathering bins.  This would oxidize the grapes and release complex compounds, robbing them of alot of the aromas and flavors they can give the wine.  Only time will tell if the winemakers can take the juice and make a great '09 vintage, but they have an excellent start.  We will look forward to further updates from Casa Lapostolle in Chile.

Perfect Summer: Grill and Wine

This is my favorite time of year.  The weather is warming up, the sun isn't hiding behind the clouds, the bright green of leaves and grass along with the multi-colored flowers, pools opening, and grills firing up.  All this helps me enjoy one of my favorite activities- sharing some grilled food and cool beverages, outside with friends and family.  Now it's time to share some grilling tips and beverage pairings to help you enjoy the weather!

Let's start with the grill.  There are a few different kinds you can try (propane, charcoal, woodburning), but I like propane.  It's cleaner energy, starts up and reaches a high temperature quickly, and has less cleanup. 

Now for the food.  It's important to remember the versatility of a grill.  You can put more than just meat on it- vegetables, fish, bread, cheese, and fruit.  You can plan your entire meal on a grill, from appetizers to dessert.  Start off with grilled bacon wrapped scallops or grilled baguette topped with seared tomatoes and goat cheese.  When grilling meat, fish, or poultry, remember to use marinades and rubs.  These should be applied at least 24 hours prior to cooking, so you give them time to mix with the meat and juices.  I like to use some sort of sweetness (honey, cocoa, sugar) mixed with a kick (peppers, garlic, peppercorns), along with spice (cinnamon, clove, coriander, etc.), herbs (thyme, rosemary, etc.), and a bit of alcohol (cognac, rum, bourbon, etc.).  These can combine to make excellent flavored marinades or rubs.  The addition of citrus (lemon, lime, orange, etc.) can help, but remember the acids can "cook", so you may want to add them later.  The addition of butter during grilling, or a butter rub down of vegetables and fruits adds excellent richness as well.  Try to experiment with all of these, along with making your own sauces.  It enhances your creativity and experience!

Now for some beverages.  There is not much that I love more on a hot day than an ice cold beer.  Make sure you grab your favorites.  They can start you off, or carry you through your meal.  I love a wheat ale for the heat.  They are crisp, refreshing, and have a touch of sweet and spice which can be perfect.  Try the Sam Adams Summer Ale, Anchor Summer Beer, or Goose Island Summertime. 

For wine refreshment, starting with a rosé may seem "girlie" to you, but they have a fruity dryness that makes them the perfect bev when the sun is beating down.  I like the 2007 Meinklang Prosa ($13.99), a semi-sparking Pinot Noir rosé from Austria, and 2007 Miguel Torres Santa Digna ($11.99) Cabernet Sauvignon rosé for it's strength, fruit, and ripe color. 

Whites match up well with seafood, and oaked, fuller bodied whites can easily pair with meat.  For freshness, try 2008 Groth Sauvignon Blanc ($15.99), a full, crisp, and creamy version.  Also, 2006 Argiolas Vermentino ($15.99) will give you the perfect compliment to your seafood travels.  For your oaked white, go to Spain for the 2007 Bodegas Muga Blanco ($14.99).  It gives you something different than Chardonnay, with full tropical fruit, coconut, and smokiness.  If this wine doesn't match with the grill, I'll give you your money back!

On to the reds.  I love to pick reds with meaty body, live fruit, spice, and grill flavors like chocolate, leather, tobacco, and char.  A malbec always fits perfectly, and I really enjoy 2008 Doña Paula ($13.99).  It's black pepper and mocha fits well with any meat and most sauces.  I have been getting into Portuguese dry reds, and my favorite value is 2004 Azamor Tinto ($15.99), a blend of 6 varietals, over half being syrah, touriga nacional, and merlot.  This wine brings a gamut of flavor, fruit, body, and spice.  It is hard to beat syrah/shiraz on the grill, so 2007 Qupe Syrah ($15.99) and 2006 Final Cut Montage Shiraz ($15.99) are great spicy red buys for your grill.  Also look for the 2006 Hitching Post Generation Red ($17.99), a spicy red blend with full body, black cherry, and tobacco.

If you move onto some grilled fruits for dessert, like plums, peaches, or pears, pair them up with a tawny port.  The caramel, toffee, and dried fruits will help you savor the sweet charred fruitiness at the end of your meal. 

I will be posting some personal recipes and pairings while I enjoy my summer.  Feel free to share some of yours as well!

(Image courtesy of flickr)

Piccolo Sogno: The Little Dream

Since last summer, I had been meaning to take a trip to one of Chicago's best new restaurants, Piccolo Sogno.  Many accolades, including Chicago's best outdoor dining, have been given in such a short amount of time.  My wife and I were finally on our way to enjoy some Italian food!

Piccolo Sogno means "small dream" in Italian- a vision created by co-owners Chef Tony Priolo and Ciro Longobardo.  The space is very smart, located on the southwest corner of Halsted and Grand.  We entered from a small valet controlled parking lot (free for lunch, $6 for dinner).  After we were greeted at the host stand, we were escorted past the busy wall bar, around the corner to our table.  The room is painted lively blue, with intimate tables bookended by an open kitchen and the entrance to the outdoor patio.  We were presented with our menus and the wine list, and we dove into our studies.

Now for a bit of background.  I worked with both Tony and Ciro at Coco Pazzo Restaurant for three years.  It was there I saw Tony grow into a great chef, with his many trips to Italy, working, learning, and creating natural, authentic, and fabulous Italian cuisine.  His winning staple is Italian imported food and ingredients accompanied by local meat and produce.  Ciro was a very likeable and professional General Manager and host, who I always shared a great connection with: he grew up where my family emmigrated from, Napoli.

It didn't take long for Tony to stop by the table for a visit.  We talked about his new restaurant, our current happenings, and old times.  Even though he was busy running the line in the kitchen, he seemed to make his way to almost every table to chat with guests.

The wine list is very impressive- an all Italian selection of over 400 bottles.  You can find values from all over "the boot", with some of the most moderate restaurant pricing in town.  From classic lighter styles like Valpolicella, Barbera, and Piedirosso, to the heavy hitters like Barolo, Amarone, Brunello, SuperTuscans, and Aglianico.  Glass pours were numerous- over 40 choices, ranging from $4 on up.  I really wanted to start with the sparkling Aspirinio, a wine I've only tried once at A16 in San Francisco, but it was off the list.  So we started with a sparkling Pinot Nero rosé from Veneto, which was crisp and fruity.  We later moved to a bottle of 2006 Maculan Brentino, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, also from Veneto.  This wine worked well through our meal, as it had supple tannins, floral notes, and rich dark fruit.  The long flavor winded down with a bit of oak.  A steal at $38.

Now for the meal.  We were immediately presented with an amuse-bouche of truffled potato croquets and soft house-made breads.  We wanted to share many items, so we could experience most of the menu.  To start off, we had to try the pizza napoletana style- thin crust, cooked in a wood burning stone oven, topped with fresh ingredients.  Verdict: this is as close as you can come to Napoli in Chicago.  The thin, crisp and doughy crust was topped with fresh cheese, olive oil, and arugula.  We also had the Burrata con Culatello- thinly sliced prosciutto topped with Burrata, a cheese from Puglia made from mozzarella and cream.  The combo of the melt in your mouth salty pork with the creamy cheese is amazing.

Next, we went with the Insalata Barbabietole, which came out in gorgeous presentation.  Locally grown beets topped with shaved fennel, greens, and ricotta, surrounded by citrus oil.  This was a pleasant, clean, and delicious salad.  We also had the Griglia Mista, a mix of grilled seafood surrounding greens.  There was not much seafood, and the baby octopus was a bit scorched, but the calamari was crisp with light char and big sea flavor.

For pasta, we split the Gnocchi di Spinaci, small spinach and potato dumplings in a sauce of herbs, sundried tomatoes, and mushrooms.  The care in the house-made pasta was evident, as they were soft and subtle with each flavor hint.  The sauce was so fresh, I could not help but scoop every drop up with bread.

For our secondo piatto, we went with the Porchetta alla Romana.  This is a very authentic and simple dish from Lazio, of pork rolled in olive oil and herbs, wrapped with Pancetta, and wood roasted.  It was sliced, accompanied by roast potatoes, and topped with pan drippings.  The smell was so intensely delicious, we received comments from the table next to us, commending us on our selection!  The palate matched the bouquet- rich and flavorful. 

On to the sweets.  For chocolate lovers, go for the Torta con Gianduia.  It is a warm flourless chocolate cake, with an oozing center, accompanied by hazelnut ice cream.  The Millefoglie, meaning "thousand leaves", is a multi-layered puff pastry, encasing a chocolate chip custard- almost tastes like cookie dough.  This is a "do not miss" dessert!

I highly recommend coursing your meal at this restaurant.  You will be able to experience all the authenticity they have to offer.  Also, the food quality to price ratio leaves the consumer in a huge winning situation.  This spot will be pleasing Chicagoans and tourists for years to come!

Windy City Wine Guy Meets Guy Fieri

I recently had the pleasure of meeting Guy Fieri of the hit Food Network TV show, Diners, Drive-ins and Dives (also known as DDD).  I was not only excited to see Guy, but also the place he was taping an episode at- The Depot American Diner on the west side.  I have heard great things about this spot, but hadn't yet made my way out to visit.

I am a huge fan of Guy's show because it has foods that make my mouth water, excellent homemade preparations, spots that locals love (some with long traditions), and real chefs with personality and enthusiasm.  Now, alot of the food can appear rather rich (maybe even unhealthy?), but everything in moderation my friends.  I still had a few questions however- how do they pick the restaurants?  How many do they hear about?  How many actually make the cut?  What is Guy's favorite beverage?

First thing I want to say is that Guy is a real guy, a man's man.  He knows how to be funny and entertaining, but also genuine.  It is no secret why he has multiple TV shows- he has a boisterous personality and commands attention.  So what if he eats foods that would give a cow a coronary?  So what if he wears sunglasses on the back of his head or wears the same clothes your nephew does?  The guy has style.  Did you see his car?!

Listening to Guy talk about the restaurants on DDD gives you a sense of his passion and integrity.  Hundreds of places are submitted to appear on the show, but only 1 out of about 80 make it.  There are many requirements.  It has to be a diner, drive-in or dive.  It has to serve food that people love and rave about- this is how they get Guy's attention in the first place.  Then come the specifics: you have to make a majority of your food homemade and fresh.  This means alot of prep- stocks, sauces, doughs, beans, etc.  Also, it means alot of fresh ingredients.  They may make scale tipping cuisines, but alot of it is natural, and there is also alot of care involved.  He also likes the owners and chefs to have personality- love what you do!

Now a bit about The Depot.  The place is owned by Robert Nava, former executive chef of The Signature Room and Hard Rock Hotel.  Robert is originally from the Bronx, where the idea for his delicious egg cream beverages comes from.  The decor is old school diner look- red  leatherette booths and counter seats, old diner photos, all classicly created by Robert and his wife Anamarie.  The place also boasts awesome breakfast, donuts, soups, pot roast sandwich, blue plate specials, and desserts.  Take a short ride west and give this lively spot a try!

I did get a chance to ask Guy about his beverage likes.  Besides malts and shakes, we don't normally get to see or hear Guy talk about this subject.  He is a huge wine fan and agrees that it is the best drink with a meal.  But he also loves Pabst Blue Ribbon and Buleit Bourbon.  Those are definitely Guy drinks!

Heritage Wine Cellars Gala 2009

Today I attended one of the Midwest's largest yearly wine events, the Heritage Wine Cellars Gala.  Heritage is an extremely large importer and distributor of wines- there were almost 200 producers present.  They put on quite a show at the Chicago Ritz-Carlton in the Grand Ballroom.  So much wine to taste, wine sales reps and producers willing to pour and give out info, gourmet food, espresso, and bottled water everywhere!  Now you may ask yourself, with so many wines, what do you do, and where do you start?

As one who is involved with wine buying, I start before I even go.  I look at my wine bottle and glass pour list, and write down what I am missing and in need of.  Then, I will go to the event and, with the price sheet, will set a fast priority on items I would like to see on the list.  After that business is done, it's time for pleasure!  I then seek out items I have wanted to try, even if I have no intention of purchasing them in the near future.  This also aids in tuning my palate, and adding to my memory of varietals and wines I have tried.

Now, some of the wines I loved.  My favorite was the 2006 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove.  It is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.  The vintage turned out excellent and, though it could use more aging, is so complex and full of flavor.  There is rich red and dark fruit, tobacco, leather, and spice.  I also really loved the 2006 Mitolo GAM Shiraz.  It is a huge Aussie Shiraz, with sweet ripe cherry, licorice, smokiness and spice.  Other big hits were the Terra Valentine single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, Marchesi di Gresy Nebbiolo delle Langhe and Barbarescos, Tenuta Sant'Antonio Valpolicella and Amarone, 2006 Klinker Brick Old Ghost Zinfandel, 2005 M by Michael Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Domaine Serene Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and Au Bon Climat 2004 Hidegard white blend.

Overall, a great time, and an event not to be missed.  If you can get your hands on any of those wines, try them out, and let me know what you think!

South Australia 2009 Vintage Update

This just in.  I received an update on the South Australia 2009 vintage from Janet (Sparky Marquis mum!), the General Manager of Mollydooker Winery in McLaren Vale.

The growing seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are almost exact opposite to Northern Hemisphere.  South of the equator, they more than likely have harvested most of their grapes for the year by now.  Therefore, wine vintages from South Africa, South America, Australia, and New Zealand will be available before those of North America or Europe.

South Australia experienced a rough '08 vintage due to a prolonged heatwave.  All signs pointed toward much of the same in '09- Janet even joked that global warming may force them to move to Antarctica!  Even though February started out hot, an Indian Summer moved in, letting the grapes stay on the vine to ripen.  The viticulture team in the field has claimed this vintage to be "awesome". 

After the grapes were harvested and brought to the winery, Janet was blown away by the ripe and jammy goodness of the fruit.  She claims it to be "rich, thick, silky, voluptuous, and yet vibrant and fresh" and "reminded me of my mum's blackcurrant jam".  More fruit needs to be harvested in the south, though Janet told me with the addition of "the beautiful, lifted, perfumed, fragrant Padthaway fruit" along with the McLaren Vale harvest "2009 is starting to look very special indeed".  Sounds like the makings of some fabulous wines. 

Thank you Janet, Sarah, Sparky, and Mollydooker Winery.

And the Winner Is...

Chicago's Best Palate 2009.  Four reputable sommeliers.  Three wines, blind tasted.  About thirty guests in attendance, blind tasting the same wines.  The pressure was on!

This event was held yesterday at the Hotel Sax Crimson Lounge.  Our sommeliers were up for quite a challenge- as a sommelier myself I was almost jealous!  Not only would the winner receive the title, but also a gift pack donated by event wine sponsor, Terlato Wines International.  This gift pack was comprised of the three-bottle Terlato "Peak Series" (Angel's Peak, Devil's Peak, and Cardinal's Peak), all excellent Napa Valley Bordeaux blends.  On to the tasting!

Blind tasting is a difficult challenge, even for the most fine tuned palate.  It takes good senses- sight, smell, taste.  But it also takes a bit of knowledge and deductive reasoning.  By using your senses, you can rule out certain varietals and wine regions in the world, while narrowing down the your choices.

Our sommeliers and guests had twenty minutes to narrow down their choices, and try to score points in a number of areas like varietal (grape variety, ie. Merlot), location (which included country, region, appelation, and bonus points for producer), and vintage (year the grapes were harvested).  After that time, the sommeliers revealed their picks and how they narrowed them down.  It was very informative, and I believe our guests learned alot.

Next, it was time to reveal the wines:

1. 2007 Michel Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage "La Petite Ruche" Blanc.  It is comprised of 100% Marsanne, a grape grown in the Rhone Valley. 


2. 2006 Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino.  A medium bodied red made from Sangiovese, grown around Montalcino in Tuscany.


3. 2004 Rust en Vrede Shiraz.  A full bodied red made close to Stellenbosch, in the West Cape province of South Africa.

We were finally about to find our winners and give out the prizes.  By a narrow margin, Scott Tyree of Tyree Wine Consulting is the winner of Chicago's Best Palate 2009!  Congratulations!  Also, congratulations goes out to our Amatuer Audience Best Palate Winner, Addie Braun, who went away with two wines donated by Eno, a sparkling rose made by M. Lawrence, and a Pinot Noir made by J. Wilkes.  We also had a winner of a gift certificate for Eno/Intercontinental Hotel for picking our winning sommelier.  Fun, drink, knowledge, and prizes- a win-win situation for all!

I want to thank our audience for attending, our sommeliers- Scott Tyree, Michael Taylor of the Italian Village, Alain Njike of Park 52, and Lucas Henning of C-House, my partner Theresa Carter- The Local Tourist, Terlato Wines International, Eno and the Intercontinental Hotel, and the Hotel Sax. 

I invited many Chicago sommeliers, and will invite many more next year- looking forward to having some female representation, as this city has some of the best in the world.  Can't wait for 2010!

Just Grapes

I just recently made my first visit to Just Grapes, an excellent wine shop located in the west loop, at 560 W.Washington.  I looked around, and was helped out by friendly and knowledgeable staff.  There are many discounts and deals, and that day they were featuring 50 wines at 50% off.  I came for a couple of Spanish selections, the first of which was the 2002 Emilio Moro Malleolus.  It is a deep rich red from the Ribera del Duero made of Tinto Fino, local for Tempranillo.  It was a steal for $23.  I also came for the 2003 Celler Laurona, another rich red from Montsant, just outside of Priorat.  It is made from 60% Garnacha and 40% Mazuelo, local for Carignan.  Another great buy at $11. 

I highly recommend stopping in for the deals and numerous promotions they have.  The parking is a bit scarce in the area, but there is temporary "flashing light" parking in front.

Also, if you would like to come in and sample, there is an automated tasting machine- 24 wines are hooked up and you can purchase tastes with a rechargeable "smart card".  Excellent for those of us who like to taste the milk before we buy the cow!